Have you ever been shopping online and wondered if that “walnut entry door” is really walnut? Especially when you check the price tag and wonder if it’s worth it?
It turns out that this is a common experience. We live in a time where home goods made with genuine, natural materials are becoming more and more of a rarity. You’ve likely experienced this when looking for doors as well as chairs, tables, or dressers.
To make matters worse, sometimes the way wood products are labeled? Deliberately confusing. For instance, some manufacturers will try to call particle board or bamboo “solid wood.” But that’s likely not how you’d define it yourself. (Never mind the fact that bamboo is a grass, not a tree, so it’s not wood at all!)
Understanding just what you’re getting these days is a minefield.
But if you’re able to verify that you have a true, real solid wood product, you can have peace of mind. You can also be fairly certain that the product is made in a more traditional way, informed by a lineage of craftsmanship. We’re here to help you tell the difference between solid wood and veneer, and explain the advantages of each product type.
Solid Wood vs. Veneer vs. Fiberglass: At a Glance
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Solid Wood |
Veneer |
Fiberglass |
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Maintenance |
Refinish every 2–6 years depending on sun exposure and finish type. Sand and re-seal scratches as they appear. |
Wipe clean; avoid moisture. Surface damage can't be refinished. Once the veneer is compromised, replacement is the only fix. |
Wash with soap and water. Repaint every 5–10 years if finish fades. No refinishing with stain, only paint. |
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Longevity |
80–100+ years with proper maintenance and protection. Many historic homes still have their original solid wood doors. |
15–30 years under normal conditions. Moisture or hard impacts shorten that significantly. |
20–40 years. UV exposure degrades surface finish. The core material itself lasts longer than the cosmetic layer. |
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Appearance |
Real grain, natural variation, depth of color that changes with age. Can be stained any shade or left with a clear finish. |
Looks like wood at a distance. Up close, the repeating grain pattern gives it away. Limited stain options. |
Textured to mimic wood grain but visibly artificial in direct light. Paint adheres well; realistic staining is difficult. |
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Cost |
$1,500–$6,000+ for a custom solid wood entry door, depending on wood species, design, and other specialty add-ons like custom glass or hardware. |
$300–$1,500. More accessible upfront, but replacement costs arrive sooner. |
$400–$2,500. Mid-range cost with lower ongoing maintenance spend. |
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Versatility |
Fully customizable — any size, shape, joinery style, species, or finish. The only material that can be carved. |
Limited to standard sizes and designs. Carved or rounded or arched shapes aren't possible. |
Available in many standard designs and colors. Custom shapes and sizes are limited compared to solid wood. |
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ROI / Replacement Timeline |
A well-maintained solid wood door can outlast the home's other renovations. Adds measurable resale value as a premium feature. |
Budget for replacement within 15–30 years. Low upfront cost; partially offset by a shorter lifespan. |
Solid mid-range ROI. Low maintenance costs keep total ownership cost competitive, though it won't command the same premium as solid wood at resale. |
Advantages of solid wood
Longevity
If you happen to have an ‘heirloom’ piece of furniture, in many cases it’s solid wood because of how long solid wood lasts. Solid wood products are not built just to conform to the latest trend. They really are meant to last generations.
Ease of maintenance
Solid wood lasts because it can be maintained. Unlike veneer, which is more vulnerable to water damage or scratches that can’t be repaired, solid wood can be restored and maintained.
The principle tenet of good wood maintenance is regular cleaning (always with a dedicated wood soap or castille soap, never harsh or abrasive chemicals). You’ll also want to touch up the finish, depending on the type of product and how much wear and tear it’s exposed to. For low-touch items like bookcases or furniture, you may go decades without needing to re-finish. Whereas for cutting boards or countertops, quarterly re-oiling is probably needed. Exterior doors fall somewhere in between, likely needing refinishing every 2-6 years depending on their exposure to direct sunlight, local weather conditions, and the kind of finish they were originally sealed with.
Advantages of veneer: lower price and more predictable dimensional stability
Veneer’s main positive aspect is its lower price. It offers a more accessible alternative to solid wood that is still a more elevated option than laminate, which is plastic masquerading as wood. Veneer is technically still wood, albeit a very thin layer. Veneer is most suitable for low-touch applications not subject to daily use.
One other advantage of veneered doors is that the panel product underneath it is usually very dimensionally stable. Solid wood can shrink or expand in response to changes in humidity, so if you plan to replace an entry door in a humid environment--like a greenhouse, sauna, or indoor pool--you'll want to stick with veneer or fiberglass.
How to tell if something is solid wood vs veneer
Weight
Solid wood products are usually heavier than their veneer counterparts. While there are occasional exceptions with wood species like Western Red Cedar that are very lightweight, in general, solid wood feels...well...solid.
Grain Pattern

Look closer at the grain pattern. Do you see identically repeating patterns along the face of the wood, especially on the panels? Then it is definitely veneer. Solid wood has subtle variation throughout, and no two boards are exactly alike. If the wood has knots, the knots should be the same on both sides of the product, going all the way through to the other side.
Presence of End Grain
Another key differentiator is whether or not the product has any visible end grain. Veneer products do not have end grain and instead continue edge grain patterning across the edges, whereas real wood will have end grain.

Glue Lines
Real solid wood has glue lines spaced about ten inches apart (though this can vary based on the type of product and design). This represents the true width of real wood boards. Veneer, on the other hand, is frequently far wider than that, because it's applied more like a sheet of paper.
(Notice the glue line that runs along the vertical leg of this Hickory door.)

Carvings
You can’t carve veneer, period. So any component of a wood product with carvings in it has to be made from solid wood.
Dovetails, Dowels, or Screws
Another differentiator is how the piece was joined together. Solid wood furniture drawers are likely to have dovetail joints. Another tell is the presence of dowels (a round wooden piece that joins two other pieces together) or screws where the wood is joined together. If instead you see nails or staples? Then you know it’s veneer or laminate.
What About Fiberglass Entry Doors?
Fiberglass is the most common material for entry doors sold in the United States, so if you've been shopping around, you've almost certainly seen it. But it's worth understanding what you're actually getting when you choose fiberglass.
Why fiberglass became so popular
Fiberglass doors need almost no maintenance. They resist denting and moisture, and cost less than solid wood.They're also better insulated than most wood doors — a quality fiberglass door typically achieves a U-factor between 0.17 and 0.20 (lower is better), while a solid wood door usually lands between 0.30 and 0.50. For homeowners in climates with extreme heat or cold, that difference matters.
The appearance tradeoff
Fiberglass doors are textured to mimic wood grain, and from across a driveway, a good one is convincing. But get any closer, and you'll see that you've been deceived. The grain pattern is molded, with a level of repetition and uniformity that feels obviously artificial. You can paint a fiberglass door any color you like, but you won't achieve a realistic-looking wood stain finish.
What fiberglass can't do
The bigger issue is repairability. A solid wood door that gets scratched, dented, or water-stained can be sanded and refinished. A fiberglass door with surface damage is harder to repair. This is because deep scratches and cracks usually require filler and repainting the whole door, and the result is rarely seamless. Similarly, fiberglass can't be carved or shaped into non-standard profiles the way wood can. If your home has an unusual opening, or you want a pointed arch, a round top, or any custom geometry, fiberglass isn't for you.
The honest comparison
Fiberglass makes sense if your priority is low maintenance and energy efficiency, and you're not attached to the look and feel of real wood. It's a practical choice that suits many homeowners, but fiberglass doesn't age well, and it can't be restored like solid wood.
At RealCraft, we don't use fiberglass to make our doors, because we think a front door should be something that lasts a long time, and something that you can repair and restore.
The RealCraft Promise
All of our exterior doors are 100% solid wood, true timber, completely free of veneer or fiberglass. We never use veneers on any product. Whatever wood species you order, that’s literally what you’re getting.
This eliminates the worry and confusion that these other options can create. You know with solid wood that if your door gets scratched or water-stained, you can repair it. You know that you can count on it to last. It will also continue to add value to your home, as a luxury-grade piece that elevates any facade.
We build with solid wood because we believe you deserve home goods that last.

























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